Living the dream Australia

Home rule waterfall

Home Rule

After a brief stopover back at Cooktown after Elim, we headed for a small spot Jenna found on the net called Home Rule. It’s a small campground near the tiny settlement of Rossville. It’s right at the end of a one-way road with an incredible rainforest creek bordering 3 sides of the property. It seemed a bit bizarre, as the owners were away, and the neighbor who was really nice, just said make yourselves at home!!!

So we found a spot, where I could get TV range of course, and we settled in. It was quite warm during the middle of the day, so we just relaxed and listened to the jungle all around us.

In the afternoon, we thought we would walk up to the waterfall that Jenna had read about on the Internet. Now we weren’t expecting much as its quite an out of the way place. So of we went, sort of guessing our way, as there were no signs, then we met a fella who had just done the walk, and he advised us where to go.

The instructions were to cross over the middle of the dams, and follow the PVC piping up the hill. About half way up we started to hear the roar. That’s right, half way into a 5 km walk and we could HEAR the roar of the waterfall.

It continued to get louder and louder and it just absolutely blew us away as to how big it was. It was MASSIVE!!! A cascading waterfall about 100ft high, with a pool and rapids below. Just spectacular. It was so good we returned the next day to complete the walk and revisit the waterfall.

The river at the bottom of the property is a bright aqua colour and you are able to swim in it, (apparantly no crocs, so we were told) Tyso took advantage and had an afternoon swim in the water which he has been dieing to do as of course most water bodies up here have crocs in them.

The 3 horses on the property are very friendly and will come up to you for a pat especially if you have a couple of spare carrots for them

I would highly recommend visiting this out of the way place. It’s the little finds like this that have made this trip so good. We would never have found this if it we were coming to town with set ideas in mind.

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Elim Beach

We departed Cooktown and headed for Elim Beach. We were a bit undecided on what the road in was going to be like, but a quick chat with Leon, who is the site owners son, advised us we would be fine. We passed the Endeavor Falls on the way and stopped in for a quick look. The falls were really nice, and they gave Cedar a chance to stretch her legs and burn some energy up. We ducked into the store to buy an ice cream, and the fella who works there let us feed his pet Barramundi. It was so funny, Jenna held the prawn and the speed of the Barra was just incredible.

We then passed thru Hope vale, which to be brutally honest is a really run down Aboriginal Community. We didn’t even feel safe stopping for the permit. It was very intimidating. None the less we journeyed on and with the help from the lady at the service station we found the track out to Elim Beach.

The track is was roughly 80km’s, and was in fairly good condition. There was pot holes in sections, but nothing really to worry about. There was also a few water crossings, but they were all hard bottom, and gave the 200 no worries at all.

We rolled into Eddie’s camp and were struck with how perfect the location is. Its completely north facing, with beautiful shady trees. Eddie had dropped into town, so we just pulled out of the way and had some lunch while Cedar had a sleep. Some how I managed to sneak satellite reception thru the tree canopy, but that made it even better as we were in a shady spot right on the waters edge. The best thing was, there was only one other family camped near by!!!

We met Eddie when he arrived back, and what a lovely man he is. He is 86 years old, and was born just up from where he now lives. He has a had a very interesting working life, traveled all over Australia working for some of the major builders, as well as been a cattle rustler, and many other fascinating jobs. I could listen to his stories all day long. We became quite friendly with Eddie, and he came down and visited us most days.

We put the crab pot out the first day we were there, which is just a matter of walking out at low tide, tying it up to a tree, and waiting. The next morning we checked the pot and to our surprise there were 4 crabs in there. Sadly though, 3 were under size and the 4th, which was well and truly legal, was a female full of eggs so back she went.

I also had a fish from the shore that night, and had a massive run, then broke off right near the shore. Later on I caught a shark, so it probably would have been one of them. Still it was very enjoyable and relaxing sitting on the deck chairs watching the sunset over the colored sands.

On the Wednesday we drove out to the bays West of Elim Bay. It reminded us a bit of WA's coastline, rocky, treed with nice white sand. It was really pretty but we were blown away by the amount of rubbish that was on the shores. It was obvious that it had washed up from the ocean as it was all bottles, broken plastics, ropes and other pieces of sea junk. It was really quite sad to see all this rubbish washing in on the shores, it makes you stop and wonder how much rubbish is getting tossed into our oceans.

We only came across one couple who had come in to the area for the day. We had to laugh as he told us "This is the best beaches you will ever see." The beaches were definately really pretty but I guess he has never seen WAs coastline. The best bit is you can swim in WA. I figure I would rather take my chances with the sharks rather than the crocodiles and stingers!

We walked from our camp to the coloured sands. The Sand cliffs which lead onto the beach were made up of all different coloured sands from Red, Yellows,Whites and blacks. Worth a look and once again another beautiful bay. If you continue to drive past the coloured sands, you will arrive at a few shack made out of rainwater tanks on the beach. A few Kite Surfers have made this there home. I wouldnt drive any further than this shack as Eddie told us quite a few cars have sunk as the sand turns to quicksand. You can actually see the difference in the beach sand and the quicksand.

We departed Elim and said our good byes to Eddie. Our plan was to see if the Battlecamp track was open, but on arrival we found out there was no chance. Still some friendly advice from the roadwork’s crew that we should defiantly check out Isabella Falls before we headed back to Cooktown. So we dove on thru the massive raod works crew, and it was well worth the small trip in. Cedar had an absolute ball playing in the water by the spill way, and old mate Tyson had a swim also.

We headed back into Cooktown, which usually I would never visit the same town twice, but we decided on a night to clean up and wash everything down.

Tyson at Elim Sunset

Mudcrabbing, none were size to keep so all released

elim Beach Swinging Rope





Our camp

Coloured Sands

Coloured Sands Beach

Baby genius writing in the sand, next to conquor german

Archer Point, bit windy

Cooktown

We arrived into Cooktown not really knowing what to expect. We were both pleasantly surprised by our first impression of the town. Its an old town, with loads of historic buildings that are in great condition, a couple of old pubs, and just a general really nice feel about the town. It still surprises me that there really are no tourists here at this time of the year.

We checked into the Orchid Caravan Park, which is within walking distance to the main street. The managers are lovely and absolutely love dogs. After just one night with neighbors, the whole caravan park emptied out. So we have the whole place to ourselves!!!

We walked up to the Grassy hill look out, which is where Captain James Cook walked to survey the reef to plan his exit. There is heaps of history in this town, and usually that’s not my cup of tea, but it was very interesting to read of their exploits. There is a lot of info dotted around the town, showing the significant points of interest. The walk was so steep, but well and truly worth the effort to get the lighthouse. The view was just incredible. Jenna and I both said it’s a wonder Captain Cook didn’t just drop anchor right here and set up for good!!! We did this walk a few times just for fitness as it was a real work out especially pushing the pram up it.

The next day, Jenna found out about a place called Trevethan Falls. It’s quite a trip in there, with some really rough tracks, water crossings, and general low range driving. But was it worth it!!!! WOW, is all we could say. It was spectacular. A massive waterfall cascading onto rocks into a plunge pool. By far, my favorite waterfall so far. I know people say If you have seen one waterfall you have seen them all but up in Far North Queensland they are all so spectacular and you could never get sick of them.

We stopped into the Lions Den Hotel on the way home, and conveniently Cedar had fallen asleep about 10 minutes before we arrived. Also conveniently, we parked right next to a table and chairs, so Jenna and I sort of had a hot date. It was really nice, the building is so old, and has been open since around 1870. You just cant imagine it been around that long, I mean, its remote now, let alone 150 years ago!! The building had peoples well wishes and photos scribbled all over the walls and it was quite interesting to read what some people had wrote. We had a couple of drinks and spoke to a few of the locals.

We planned on a rest day for our Saturday, after I stayed up rejoicing that Fremantle Dockers had lost the previous night, so we wandered down to the local markets which are held every Saturday. They were small, but really good and Jenna came home with bags of fruit and veg, and I came home with my standard chutney. I also had to drop in and grab a crab pot and a couple of sneaky lures ready for the cape!!!

We decided to take a drive south and have a look at the free camp sites at Archer Point. You couls easily get the van in there, but at this time of the year, the place gets belted by the south east trade winds. Would be a great spot to set up but, even with the wind. There was a lighthouse up the top of the hill which had views over the entire bay, perfect for a few photos.

We also ventured south to complete the second half of the Bloomfeild track. This section passes thru Cedar Bay National park which is just as stunning as the Daintree rainforests. The road passes the small township of Rossville, and then arrives into Ayton. The track nearing Ayton had bad pot holes. I defiantly wouldn’t be to keen to drive that part with the van on. Its very very scenic around these parts, and we sort of made plans to return on our way back down.

Whilst at cooktown we visited the botanic gardens, a nice walk thru the landscaped gardens, it wasnt the prettiest botanic gardens we have seen but still a nice walk.

The James Cook Museum was another worthwhile stop. Entry was $10 each and at first we were like "What a waste of money" That was until we realised there was an upstairs section. It was really interesting to see all of the artefacts and how the settlers lived back in the day. The building itself was magical with views from the second floor over Cooktown. Even if you dont like history it is a great place to see. The doll section is a little creepy!

The Esplanade walk around the town is a great way to see the sights Cooktown has to offer. It is also a great way to learn some of the history. Of course we couldnt escape the walk without stopping at the play equipment, not only was it for little kids but there was stuff to keep us big kids amused as well.

We restocked our food and booze and will head for Elim Beach.

Trevethon falls

Cedar Bay national park


Cedar Bay National Park, Bloomfield Track

Cedar Bay National Park

Lionds Den Pub

Lions Den Pub

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Daintree forrest

Daintree

We arrived at the ferry to take us across the Daintree river after a short drive from port Douglas. Its still fairly quiet up here at the moment so there was no horror lines we had been warned about. The ferry only cost $31 return for the car and van which we thought was great.

We planned to stay at Daintree forest village, which was about half way up to Cape tribulation. The first range that we had to drive over was fairly nerve racking and a real test for the car, but all went well. The rainforest is absolutely stunning. The weather was rainy and and towing the bushtracker around the tight corners on the road high up in the mountains was definately slow as there was no railing keeping us from sliding 100's of metres down.

The caravan park was great, with a massive lawn area, coconut trees and a backdrop of tropical rainforest, however the mosquitos were crazy, there was huge swarms of them everywhere in the caravan park.

We drove up to explore Cape tribulation and the Bloomfeild track the next day. The weather was a little wet, but nothing to bad. It really brought out the best of the rainforest. The Bloomfeild track is truly amazing. Thick thick rainforest, with several creek crossings that are like a screensaver they are so perfect. Round rocky creek crossings, with crystal clear water, brilliant!!!

The Bloomfeild track is roughly 120km long, and winds up over the ranges with some extremely steep sections. We did contemplate towing the van up and over, but due to the rain we decided not to. We made it all the way to the small town of Ayton, where we visited the amazing Wugal Wugal Falls. The roar of the falls could be felt thru your whole body, making it truly breath taking.

We continued on and dropped into Weary bay, a local fella, had recommended it to us. Weary Bay is a long stretch of beach, with the opening to the Bloomfeild river to the south. It was nice but like all the beaches and rivers in tihis area you cant swim in them due to the crocodiles.

After completing this half of the track, we decided to do the other half from Cooktown and headed off home, we managed to spot a huge Salty croc swimming in the Bloomfield river. For such a big fella (approx 3.5metres) he swam so gracefully thru the water.

We were extremely lucky also to see a Cassowary and her 2 babies crossing the road. We heard its quite rare to see them, and we were stoked we got the chance to see them in the wild. The rainforest truly is amazing here, and Jenna was in her absolute element. She would have stayed a month if it was up to her!!!

After staying for a couple of days we crossed back over the ferry and stopped in at the Daintree town centre and had a lovely breakfast.

Daintree ferry crossing

Daintree ferry crossing

Caravan park we stayed at

Mum Cassowary and 2 babies

Caravan park out the back of service station.

Cape Tribulation Crossing

Crossing on Bloomfield Track

Bloomfield track

Wujal Wujal Falls

Wugal Wugal falls

Weary Bay

Weary Bay

Weary Bay

Bloomfield River Croc

Bloomfield Track

Daintree Town Centre

Tyson on the ferry to Daintree

Bump Track

Port Douglas

We departed Cairns having had a blast and planned on staying in Kuranda for a few nights however after a lady accidentally drove into our caravan, it kinda lost its appeal and we continued on through the tablelands to Port Douglas. There was no damage done to our van as she hit the Bushtrackers back Bumper but it smashed her cars back window all over her baby. Luckily no-one was injured, the driver was just a little shaken.

While we were in Kuranda we did the tourist street which we had done before but it was definately worth a second wander. We stopped at the German sausage van which Carly had recommended to us and had a bite to eat, we got Cedar an Ice-cream, Dad a coffee and Jenna some Natural handmade lollies. All full up we pushed on

The last time we were in Port Douglas was about 5 years ago, and we were looking forward to being there again. We checked into the Tropic Breeze Caravan Park, which is only a 200m walk to the main St of port Douglas. Its really well kept, super clean and pretty small, which I don’t mind in a van park.

We went for a great walk that afternoon, down along 4 Mile beach. Cedar was into everything, the sand, the sticks and the shells. She loved it. It was quite windy but it didn’t matter at all, because it was still quite warm. As we strolled along the coconut tree lined beach, looking out to the cruise ship moored of the coast, I really had a moment to realize how lucky we are to be living this dream!!! Of course when I say there were coconut trees lining the beach do you think Jenna was going to let me escape without filling the pram full of coconuts. So there we were throwing sticks up at the trees to knock the coconuts down. 6 coconuts later we were happy campers.

We had the customary walk down the main St, but to be honest, since the last time we were there, the town has gone even more built up and touristy than ever. Its good for what it is, but quite expensive. We drove up to the look out, and admired the million dollar houses right up on the hill with incredible views.

We rang Carly, and said we had found a good walk to go on, so we arranged to meet on the Thursday and tackle the beast! It was called the bump track, and it goes back a long way to the war days. It was the only way in and out up on to the tablelands from Port Douglas. There were signs all the way up explaining how the horse and carts took days to drag the massive loads up these incredibly steep hills. I mean, they were a struggle to walk up, let alone dragging any weight. At the end of the track, there was a nice little creek cascading over the rocks, amid the rainforest. Really really nice.

Dave and Carly also came up and met us for a night out in port Douglas. We started out at the Courthouse pub for a few afternoon beers, so we sat out under the verandah and watched the world go by. We then went home for a shower and got Cedar ready, and headed out to The Zinc Restaurant. The food and service was top notch, and I would highly recommend this place. Cedar fell asleep in the pram, so we tucked her away near us in the corner and she slept the night away, while we sipped Expresso Martinis, Wine, Spirits and beer.

The next morning, extremely hung over, we said our goodbyes to Dave and Carley, who stayed up the Rd, and we packed the van up and headed for the Bakery. The famous Mockas Pies lived up to their reputation and really hit the spot. Not quite as good as Denmark pies, but I may be a little biased there.

We departed Port Douglas nice and relaxed, and defiantly a little lighter in the hip pocket!!!

Kuranda Main Street, German food van.


Bump Track Walk

Zinc Restaurant


Zinc Restaurant toilets

Zinc Restaraunt

Courthouse Bar

Courthouse